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Tag Archive | "tune"

Bow Tune

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Who would you recommend to tune an Elite Hunter, live in Maryland. Is Lancaster Archery a good one ?

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Anyone Paper Tune?

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All the years I’ve paper tuned with verticals has me still doing it with the horizontals. While the weather is crappy, I have been fooling around with various arrows, components, weights, etc. I’ve always been a firm believer in the arrow coming off the bow perfectly straight, and do it with my xbows too. Usually when I get perfect tears with fletched and unfletched shafts, I dont need much adjustment outside at longer distances. Plus I like to know how the arrow is coming off the bow IF there is a 5 yard shot or so.
Just curious if anyone else does it?
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Finger Shooting. Will this arrow tune?

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Several months ago I saw a thread that listed certain arrows that would never tune to a fingers shooter. I remember that the author seemed to be a respected authority on this issue. Does this ring a bell with any of you? I’d like to find that old thread. I’m shooting a Mathews Ovation with fingers and my Easton FMJ’s just don’t seem as shooter friendly as my Pile Drivers did. Hence my reason for wanting to find this old thread. Thank you


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broadhead hitting left and won’t tune

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This might be helpful to some. Expensive learning curve for me lol. I’m shooting a new Strother Rush XT at 29" with 70lb. limbs maxed out. Bought some Easton Injection arrows that are 340 spine cut 27.5". Shot good with field points. Walk back tuned dead on out to 50 yards so screwed on a broadhead. No matter how much I moved the rest the broadhead hit left. Finally went to town and bought some more arrows. Same arrows except 400 spine cut 28" and same 100gr. heads. First broadhead hit left of center so I shot a field point and it hit the back of one of the broadhead blades. Now shooting the QAD Exodus, Rage Hypodermic, and field points spot on. Learning experience for me. I am 100% confident in my set up now. If everything is tuned good on your bow and your broads are hitting left and won’t tune try some lighter spined arrows.


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How to tune a bear attack

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I bought my bear attack new in 2010 and need to put new strings on it. I have chosen vaportrail string/cable for it this year. I will be taking it to the best bow shop in my area but they haven’t worked on one before. I just want it shooting good again and was wondering if anyone can help me with what to look for while they are setting it back up. Thank you all in advance.


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New arrows wont tune, any ideas why?

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Received some 400 spine easton axis trads the other day and they are shooting horrible out of my bow, my gt 5575 shafts tune great and fly awesome. These arrows through paper always tear high and bare shafts fly nock high as well. Dont understand why, have tried moving the nocking point up and down and have tried several different point weights. They also seem to drop like crazy compared to the 5575’s. Regret buying these arrows right now, way more expensive then the gold tips and the hit inserts are a HUGE pain in the azz to remove, even with hot melt.


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Final Review & Tune Of My Bear Super Kodiak…

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Well folks?..i’ve already owned this bow for a month now..unfortunately?..i shot the dickens out of it the first week or two to the point that i was ripping up my right shoulder a bit..so i backed off..hence why i haven’t been posting much of late…think i’ve shot maybe 4 or 5 short sessions (mostly tuning related) in the past two weeks and i hafta admit..it sure was strange sitting next to wifey watching TV while the sun was still up but i spent much of it tinkering with and building arrows for this bow..and the ones it seems to love most?…

"The Arrows": Are .600 spine full length (30 1/2") Beman MFX Classics with 5" full helix round back trueflight feathers doning 125gr points…which paint, glue nocks and all?..makes for a 415gr arrow as the shafts are heavy at 8.0gpi..this leaves me shooting 10.9GPP…and i’ve tried lighter arrow combos but it seems the limbs of the SuperK like to be ladened down with some weight..

*and i think you’ll see why in a moment..(massive riser/short snappy limbs)

"The String": Remains the original oem string which consists of 16strands of D97 which seems extremely well made with very tight center serving and flem braids hard as a rock to which i applied yarn wraps and cat-whiskers and am using two nocking points..a brass crimp-on up top and a tie-on below..and seemed "fully shot-in" at well under 100 shots.

"The Bow Specs":

Poundage: Is marked as being 64"/35#@28"…it scales 37 1/4#s @ 28" and i’m holding right at 38# at my 28 1/2" Draw Length. Note: Bear rounds their bows off to the nearest 5# increment on a (-2#/+3#) Basis.

Brace Heigth: Factory Recomended BH for this 64" Super Kodiak is (8"-9")…i shot this bow at all possible variations within that span in 1/4" increments..and for some reason?..it and i like 8 1/4" BH best..so it remains set at 8 1/4"s.

Nock Heigth: Bottom of upper string nock is set at 7/16ths above the shelf..shooting 3under with a Jenkins Tab.

Now?….The Review…

"The Riser"The multi-piece bubinga riser of this 64"er is impressively massive…it literally feels like i’m holding a 2 foot length of 2X4 Bubinga with an extrodinarily well sculpted grip that seems to keep the bow remarkably stable throughout the draw..matter fact?..Bear Archery actually states in their AD/Lit that the 64" SuperK IS simply a 60" SuperK…"with a longer riser"..and they aren’t kidding..as it almost appears that the riser dwarfs the limbs?..so i measured it..and from fade to fade?..it’s a whopping 26" long bubinga riser..

which to me sort of explains why that..

"At-The-Shot": This bow is amazingly well mannored (assuming proper state of tune with somewhat heavier arrows) and with no leash or loop?…using a completely open handed loose grip?..it just sits there..as the top limb gently rolls back after the arrows left the shelf….meanwhile?…

"The Limbs": Seem short and snappy..as they are..and measure a scant 18"s from the fades to the string nocks..

Together?…strung and braced at 8 1/4"s?..the overall measurement of this 64" bow is 62"s even as measured from end of limb tip too end of limb tip.

"The State Of Tune": Like i said earlier…i haven’t been shooting much lately..but the shoulder now feels well healed and after a couple warm up groups at 10yds?..i was feeling all strong and puffy..weilding this 38#er like a healthy baby with a rattle..and utter physical confidence..which challenged me to attacking my mental game a bit this evening…so i began my walk-back drills..first 10yds…then 12…then 15..and holding baseball sized groups of 3 fletched 2 bare (quite a few groups straight) and going through my shot sequence like clockwork..enter "mental confidence with a well tuned sweetheart of a bow"…and moved back to 18yds..for the first time in quite awhile..that white pvc stake in the ground is my 20yd mark..

and nailed this for my first group at 18yds this evening..

I thought it "camera worthy"…and words can’t express how great it felt to have complete and utter control over every aspect of the shot each and every time…with my tabbed fingers snapping off the string cleaner than chlorox..proving to me..

"it’s not where they landed…it’s how they got there"

that counts. 😉

If you don’t have an extra grand laying around for a top shelfer or a custom?..i highly recomend the Bear Super Kodiak..(for about 1/2 that)..and I think Old Fred knew what he was doing when he melded a target style riser to his fav hunting bow back when…it’s a winning combo. 😉

Hope you all enjoyed…happy shooting and L8R, Bill. :cool2:


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How to make fat stiff 3D arrows tune out

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This is my first year shooting fat arrows for 3D. I’ve always shot .246 size arrows but wanted to step up.

My setup
Elite Pure
55lbs 28 11/16in draw length
Limbdriver Pro rest
GT X Cutters cut at 30inches with 90gr points, GT HD Pin Nocks, 3 Mini Blazers and squared at both ends

My problem:
My first issue is the paper tuner. It shoots a consistent bad left tear with fletched and raw shafts. Identical tears. Moving the rest makes no effect. The only way I could help it was by moving the cable rod to where I could only shoot a Unfletched arrows.
Then, the Kitchen Sink method, the bare and fletched shaft won’t group anywhere close at any distance. At 20 yards it shoots 2 feet to the right of my fletched arrow.
Im working on the modified French tune which is doing better but my rest is so bad to the right I’m afraid if I step back to 40 yards the arrow is going to hit the next county to the right of me. I’ve never ever had issues with any other arrow or bow until now. Tuned many a customer bow up already and their bows shoot bullet holes, walkback tune well and are deadly accurate as far as they can see. Then I tune my bow and lose my marbles!

I’m not any kind of new to archery but this has got me beyond frustrated. Any help even the most basic would be appreciated.


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