Archery Store

Seven years ago, while enroute to the annual Las Vegas tournament, my equipment was stolen.
I am pretty sure the baggage handlers at JFK (NYC) stole the case. It was a nice SKB rectangular case.

I have now (with the help of a good friend, and some members here on AT) , decided it was time to
get back into shooting. I have in the past week purchased a bow,rest, release, cam, and case.
I expect to be back target shooting within a few days. It feels good to finally be back in the sport,
I am already looking at tournaments to attend. Including LAS VEGAS !!!!!!!

Hey guys, I’ve been able to get bare shaft to land with fletch at 60 yards with all but one of my bows. After a thorough creep tune, Then I bare shaft. I’m of the opinion that simply paper tuning for a bullet hole means nothing if the nock cycles up and down through the power stroke, so I believe creep tuning first works better for me, and the long range grouping speaks for itself..

Although I am a beginner, I still try everything I can to improve, but most importantly, trying to gain a complete understanding of all the dynamics at work. I’ve developed a few opinions (subject to change ) and also a few theories. Basically my questions are in general, but I will give my set up info for anyone who is curious…

PSE Rally 59#@29", TR Revolution, scoot shark double jaw release, Easton Injexions 330 cut to 27" with 125 points and mini blazers..

When a shop set up this bow, I got a 4" tail high left tear at 12 feet, probably an 11 o’clock tear with bare shaft and almost the same exact same with fletched, only slightly shorter than the bare shaft tear.. I was getting 1" groups nearly every time at 30. I thought if I could get the bare shaft flying straight I would have even better accuracy, yet once tuned for perfect bare shaft flight, the grouping was worse!

I’m thinking, with such a stiff shaft… the huge tear was producing some flex in the arrow, making it a little more forgiving of mistakes? Is that possible?

Another question is, this bow is a twin cam, and shoots better with top cam leaning / and bottom \ on a RH bow, indicating more pressure on the cable side of the cams. Not a lot mind you, but they do lean.
My question number 2: would this make since to say the axle ends/or limb tips are more balanced this way?

And torque tuning. I’ve got some theories here.. say I’m at the 30 yard line and got sighted in on a vertical strip of masking tape, and basically drilling it most of the time with a few right and a few left.. I call it centered around the line..
then I torque right slightly, and those arrows go right by three inches…but when I torque left, those arrows only average left of the line by 1.5"… a few questions about this..

A: would you say based on these results, that I naturally torque one direction, and this is why one side shows a lot more effect than torquing the opposite way?

B: once my rest is slid back a little the torqued shots land on the line, as expected… I have changed the position of the nodes of my arrows in relation to my rest, yet, I still every now and then get a wide group. What’s your opinion on all of this?

Thanks for your help!

Made a belt and a quiver for my son. He also asked me to paint his Samick Polaris. So I spray painted it in Camo!

He loved it!

Just poking around, and the numbers don’t indicate time spans so I’ll ask.

Looking at the super high end Orion / TP Venom and your in the game ~1,800 or so once you add the crank, and scope upgrades.

one puts you at 375, the other at 400 fps…

Looking at the Stealth, and Ultra shadow at ~1,200 at 350 fps seems to be the next step down.

Pondering the future –

1) Anyone think they’ll be a 450 fps bow in 2015 or are they hitting a platue….
2) Is the 1,800, 1,200, and ~800-1,000 the top 3 pricing schema you see every year ?

Anybody know what years Indian Archery made their Hunter model recurve? Can’t find info anywhere. Thanks.

I have a buddy that’s going to Montana with me this fall to chase elk on his very first bowhunting trip. He’s on a tight budget and will be looking to outfit a full archery setup for around $ 500. I recommended the 2009 Elite GT500 to him, knowing that it’s a solid bow with modern specs. Regardless of brand choice, I encouraged him to shop for used gear, as I see little additional benefit gained from spending the extra cash on the latest models. Basically, the new stuff is not improved enough to justify the added expense when considering pure function alone.

Just thought I’d throw this out for discussion, knowing that this idea is completely subjective. Tell me why I’m right or wrong.