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Tag Archive | "weight"

Point weight

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I’ve been shooting for a good little while now and I’ve started to notice that out around 20-25 yards I’m hitting consistently to the left on the target occasionally I’ll have one or two hit in the center. Now I know that generally means your arrow is to stiff. Right now I’m shooting 100 and 125 grain points and can’t tell a huge difference in point of impact. What weight point should I go up to to try and bring my arrows back to the right?

Just to check my shooting tonight I shot from 10 and 15 yards and both times I got 5 out of 6 in the center but at 20 they all start drifting left. Should I just leave it be and see if its more me than anything? Again those two closer groups were about 5" wide other than the one that I shanked


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Limb Weight VS Riser Length Question…

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I’m looking at a set of TT Blackmax Carbon Extremes…I feel that for $ 399?…they are offering a lot in a limb as follows…

• Advanced engineering, workmanship & materials for the quickest, most stable ILF limb for the traditional archer
• Limb tips are fastFlight/high performance bow string compatible
• Satin black finish over carbon
• 8 lams w/ 6 carbon layers with foam synthetic core
• ILF (international limb fitting) for standardized use on all ILF risers
• Weight is measured @ 28” on a 17” riser

and I won’t lie…as I would also appreciate the aesthetics of their solid matt black appearance on this new-to-me pse zone riser…however…I’m looking to hit in the 24#-26# weight range and this riser they are going on is 25"s while the limb weights are based on a 17" riser…so my question is…

They only go as low as 35#s based on a 17" riser…so would I be able to hit my desired weight of about 25#s on a 25" riser?

My quick Math says…27#s

T.I.A. Bill. :cool2:


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NFAA longbow weight

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Does anyone shoot NFAA indoor 300 with a Hill-style longbow and wooden arrow using a very light bow under 36#? I was thinking of trying a light Hill around 32# with long wooden arrows to achieve a point-on tune for 20 yards. Was wondering if anyone had tried this with a conventional straight-limbed longbow.

Thanks


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Real difference in draw weight?

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Hi,
Im new to recurves and new to this forum. I was wondering if anyone could tell me how much difference in velocity (average) is there really between a 45# and a 50# recurve? Given the same model bow, same string and same weight arrows? In fact how much difference between a 45 and 55# bow for that matter.
If its only 10-20 fps I wonder if thats really worth the stress on my shoulders and joints.
Thanks, Grady


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Working Up to Heavier Draw Weight

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Hi, all. This is my first post on this forum. Thanks in advance for any advice you can provide.

I am 58 years old and recently bought a second-hand bow after a 30-year layoff from archery. I used to shoot a 48# Bear Tigercat a lot and was pretty good at it. But I sold it about eight years ago after not using it for 20 years or so.

I now have a convenient place to shoot and just bought a second-hand bow and other equipment. After trying several bows in my local shop I realized that I was going to want to start off in the 25# range. I’d decided on a PSE Optima because I liked the feel and the ability to upgrade the limbs without buying a whole new bow. But…I then had an opportunity to buy a second-hand Optima at 35# at a price that would let me pick up the 25# limbs for a total investment of the price of a new bow with just one set of limbs.

This (finally) leads to my question. I immediately took the bow out to the range and was able to shoot it but it wasn’t comfortable. I could draw properly and anchor but couldn’t hold comfortably and was rushing my shots. But I could shoot it. I am interested in opinions on whether I’ll be able to work my way up to shooting the #35 pounder comfortably or whether I should invest the $ 90 for the lower strength limbs. I’ll probably only be able to shoot about three times per month.

Thanks again,

Larry


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Low weight & short draw arrows?

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Does anyone have any recommends for arrows for a shorter draw (approx 27") from a 35lb (@28") longbow?
(for a clubmate)

I would like carbons with durability but have always struggled in the past getting a half decent tune with my wife who has a comparable set-up based on only really having Easton models available at the time. He is a novice but mustard keen! So it would best to find him some not too expensive.

Many thanks in advance

Marc


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Restrung bow, draw weight decreased

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My bow was made to shoot 70# and I got a custom string for it, but when I got it restrung and tested the draw, it had gone down to 55#. Do I need to get the string twisted more, limbs tightened, or what? I completely re did my set up with new strings, new arrows, new sight, and wanna get my stuff right before I waste countless hours trying to sight in a set up that’s not gonna work.

To do?


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Question about arrow weight (target oriented)

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Okay, just a few questions for those that like to shoot a faster, more flat trajectory. I have a ilf setup, Hoyt excel, with tradtech black max limbs(wood/glass) I’m pulling right at about 51 pounds on a set up(with a 28.5 draw), been shooting 500 grain arrows out of it, but wanting to move to something a little faster. The 500grain arrows fly alright, drop quickly and are rather slow, so I’m looking to build a more target oriented arrow for my bow, for those longer shots.

I’m wondering as to what gpi I should aim for on the Tradtech black limbs, I haven’t found anywhere listing the minimum gpi to shoot from it, I’m figuring 7-8 gpi should be safe though right? I’ve been looking at the Gold tip ultralight pros, and the Easton Lightspeeds, the gpi for a 500 spine arrow is 6.5 gpi. My draw length is 28.5 amo, so i’ve been cutting my arrows to 27.5(with unibushing and insert/point length I usually end up around a 28.5-29 inch arrow).
I have some Ultralight pro’s already, 400 spine cut to 28.5 with a 85 grain point I shoot out of a older bow(that’s around 345 gpi), and i’ve run them through it and it seems decent enough. The spine seems a little stiff so I’m not sure I’d be able to shoot anything but feathers with those. Could I think bump it down to the 500 spine carbon(6.5 gpi), cut it to 27.5 and get away with it? If I put a 125 grain point in it I’d be right at a 350 grain arrow(7 gpi), but I’m curious as to whether or not the 125 grain point would weaken my spine to much? I’m wanting to fletch it with plastic vanes, so I need a good flex. Or could I get some more 400 spine, cut them to 27.5, and put 100-125 grain points in them and be alright? With the short arrow cut, I’m worried those may be to stiff, and I don’t really wanna have to resort to a heavy point like I did on another set of my arrows.

Or should I just say screw it, and save up for some ACC arrows that are a little heavier at 500 spine(like 7.8-8.1 gpi I think). I have some ACC arrows already, but I’m not a huge fan of the lack of a insert for the lighter ACCs(besides the half out one, which is terrible I think, they’ve splintered most of my arrows with those in them). I’ve shot alot of arrows, but most of the ones I’ve shot have been in the 10 gpi range, with stiffer spines cut to longer lengths to have room for a broadhead, so target oriented arrows are a little newer to me.

Thanks ahead of time, and any information or experience you can give is appreciated.


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