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Tag Archive | "tuning"

Helium tuning help

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I posted this over in the mathews area with no response so maybe I’ll have some better luck here.

I recently purchased a brand new helium and am having a hard time getting bare shafts to shoot straight.�
Specs:
RH
70lb.
27.5″
Ripcord rest
Victory vforce 350 .001 arrows shafts measure 28.5″ (not including nock or insert)
100g field points

I have purposely not put a sight on this bow yet so I can get comfortable with it and have it shoot well before sights.
The problem is that the arrows consistantly go nock well to the right and high. The longer the distance the worse it shows up. I have shot a several dozen through paper in an attempt to correct the flight with little improvement. The dealer set up the rest just barely above the shelf at rest (fork down) and 3/4″ from the riser(to center of shaft with fork up at the berger hole). He eyeballed everything and am pretty disappointed with how little he cared about sending me out the door with a bow that doesn’t shoot so well.
Before doing anything I made sure to put 100-150 arrows through the bow. Then I looked over for anything obvious. Adjusted the string stop just a bit as well as the monkey tails. String through center of timing hole. Axle to axle maybe 1/16″ long. Brace height 7″ Limb bolts bottomed out. However, there was/is no indication that anything is hitting. I might as well add that I shoot fobs which will immediately reflect contact, if it exists, and there was none prior to bare shaft shooting.�
First I swapped 100g field points for 125g and that just made it worse so I put the 100′s back on to further tune.
I moved the rest in both directions sideways. Going to the left helped (right as expected made it worse) however even at 1″ out arrow still goes nock right. I can’t imagine having to move the rest out much farther. I moved the rest up and that seemed to help the most with both the nock high and the right tear. I never would have imagined adjusting arrow up/down would help with a sideways nock flight. However, it was way up and over the berger. I ended up scooting the d-loop down and putting the rest back down to get the arrow somewhat centered with berger. I also tried messing with the cord on the rest, but didn’t get any improvements.
I have read about idler lean and my bow has some. At brace/rest if I use the arrow as a straight edge method there is some lean counter clockwise (viewed from rear) . The field tip center is still however well away from the center of the string at the d-loop. At full draw however, the cam leans the opposite direction (clockwise) far more. I added 1-1/2 twist (1/2 twist at a time) to the left yoke which helped a little both with cam lean at full draw and arrow flight. I hesitate to go further as this is my first time messing with the strings.
Lastly, I cranked the limb bolts out up to 3-1/2 turns (per each limb bolt) to lighten the draw weight in an attempt to see if the arrow spine may be the problem. There was a little improvement, but no cure.
I do plan on going back to the dealer I purchased the bow from once I have a chance however I am not all that confident in them simply because of the little attention to detail they put into my bow before taking my money and sending me out the door.
In the mean time does anyone have any suggestions? I searched helium tuning and couldn’t find a solution.
The only two things I can think might be the solution is to add more twists to the left yoke (possibly even remove a few from the right) to correct lean at full draw, but it will add more lean at rest. The second is that maybe my arrow spine is incorrect. I can’t imagine going to a weaker arrow. As far as going to a stiffer spine, I am right in the sweet spot of the victory chart as well as the carbon express chart. The both suggest a .340 spine. Gold tip suggests a .300. I really never thought this bow with my weight and draw length would need anything but .340 spine arrows
Any help would be much appreciated.

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Need tuning help with my faktor turbo!!!!!!

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I have had my (lefty) faktor turbo for abt a month and a half, abt a week ago I decided I wanted to broadhead tune it. Well I couldn’t get the broadheads to hit closer than 5-6 inches from the field tip so I took it to my dealer. We couldnt get it to shoot a bullethole for nothing. He had to swap the top limbs around (after calling hoyt) and put a good bit of pre lean for it to shoot a bullet.

I finally get home to shoot it and the farther back I get the bigger the gap gets between my field tip and broadhead. So today I decided to try to french tune it at 3 and 9 yards to get everything lined up. Well Im having to move my rest over so far to the left I think my fletchings are touching the riser (and the string is still not split). My dealer told me this was the first faktor he has had this much trouble with. My question is, should I have this much pre lean and should my rest be that far to the left? Not doubting my dealer just came on here for some other oppinions and help. Here are some pics. ANY input will be appreciated!!!!!


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water tuning

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haii guyz, just wanted to see if i could lern how 2 water tune and correct ph levels of water.. thankz guyz

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Hoyt RKT tuning question

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Just getting comfortable tuning my Hoyt AE with the RKT cams. Last year when I set it up, I tuned it to where the top and bottom string stops hit at the same time. I did take out the little rubber bumper prior to that.

I’ve done a lot of reading over the past year on how these cams tune best with the top stop hitting 1/8-3/32 ahead of bottom stop.
Am I not doing myself justice by having them hit together? What would I gain by changing the timing to the top draw stop hitting first?

Here is my set up– AE 2012 28" draw length. 71#. Fatboy 340 with 100 gr. tip weighing in at 373. Spring steel blade rest with .10 wide blade.

Thanks in advance for your help.

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Stringwalking Recurve – Crawl tuning..

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So i’ve only been stringwalking for about a month, scored a 207 on FITA 18 today, second time i’ve scored.

I’ve been searching for a few days and I can’t find out what people mean by tuning your crawl. Right now, I have to basically put my finger at the bottom of my black widow three under tab in order to hit gold at 18m. If I wanted to make it so I only have to go down, say, two fingers, would I be adjusting my nock point or weakening my poundage on my bow (tiler adjustment).

I’m at a 0 tiller right now.

I also will be shooting at 50m as well, and I havent had the chance to test this out, I was wondering if I need to be three under at 18m for gold to hit the gold at 50 (AKA will I have the range to hit the gold at 50m if I make my 18m crawl two fingers?)

Thanks.

Thanks,

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Tuning Problem

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I’m having some problems tuning my longbow. I’m a right hand shooter, when i shoot an arrow i see the nock end of the arrow fish to the left then correct itself. I’t is not a radical shift but i can see it while shooting at 30 yards. I don’t know if it’s my form or the arrow. Here is my setup.

Bow – #35 longbow
Draw -27.5
Arrow – Gold Tip Traditional 1535 full length (30 inches)
Tip- 100rg target tip
Fletching- 4 inch helical
Release – Tab 3 under

Does the arrow spine and how it’s configured seem ok? At 20 yards i don’t notice it (maybe it’s there i just don’t see it) and that is how far i have been shooting. Today i started shooting at 30 yards because it need to learn to shoot longer ranges and now i notice this as the arrow is in flight for a longer period of time. Anyone have any ideas?

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Bare shaft tuning (perfection desired) questions

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Hey guys so I just bare shaft tuned my GoldTip Trad 33/55 arrows. First off I started with a 30" shaft and 2 fletched arrows. I also just started shooting 3 under which I love, but getting the nock point correct is def a challenge….had to move it up quite a bit. I found a cool trick for the tuning process many of u may already use. Instead of gluing, shooting, heating, and removing the insert each time the shafts need to be cut, (1) I just used a small piece of plastic/seran wrap when setting the nock so it stays in when shot, yet can be pulled out by hand when shafts need to be cut shorter. (2) is using a target shallow enough the arrow can be pushed or pulled through the target to avoid losing a point/insert if it gets a bit loose.

*After trimming, shooting, moving the nock, adding weight to the inserts and playing with point weight and repeating many times, I got the bare shafts and the fletched arrows hitting super close like 1-2" at 10 yds. My question is should they both impact the target at the same angle as well as same spot? My bare shafts seemed to keep hitting angling "nock up 3-6" even after moving the nock up as I have read to do? Please advise

I am shooting a 50# Great Plains recurve and was shooting 30 1/2" arrows with inserts and 175 gr points. Shot them good but point was sticking out like 5" past the shelf so wanted to shorten the shafts and shoot heavier broadheads.

My final set up ended up being the same 35/55 @ 28 1/4" with 200 grain points and 50 gr weights added to the insert for a total weight 548 grains and FOC of 19.8 %.

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Diamond Outlaw, Tuning question

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Hello everyone,

Long time reader first time poster. I just recently purchased a 2013 Diamond Outlaw R.A.K. package from Cabela’s. I tested a lot of bows and got a killer deal on the setup and seemed to fit me well.

This is the first bow I have owned in 10 years. I used to shoot local 3D competitions years ago but life got in the way and i stopped.

Here is the setup,

28 inch draw
70#/ 80% letoff
Hostage Capture rest
26.75" Cabela’s Carbon Hunter Arrows 100gr Field Tips. 2" vane 340 spine, no apparent vane contact.
timing lines are perfect on the cam
Tiller is the same on both limbs and I see no lean on cam or idler wheel.
I believe I shoot with very decent form, took some time to get the feel back from competition days but I think I am there.

Okay, I like to tinker and have been researching and reading on here for a couple months about tuning. I got my bow home and headed to the basement to start my adventure. I have limited space, but I do have a lane the i can get about 15 yards of clean shot space.

I tied a new D-Loop, got out my bow square, adjusted my rest and nock point to 1/8" above center and proceeded to paper tune my bow. I started to get 3 inch tears Low Left. Adjusted my rest and nock point, and after much adjusting I started to get a near perfect bullet hole (1/4 tear right is the best I got) from about 10 feet. I then proceeded to check it by french tuning at 3 yards and 10 yards and nailed my center line dead on with very little sight adjustment. I want to get outside (too cold right now) and walk back tune this rig too, but for now inside is all i have.

I know this all sounds like a success right? Well I have a concern, to get that bullet hole tear while paper tuning my nock point is set 1/2" to 3/4" high of center, and my arrow has a strong/very noticeable downward slope to it while on the rest.

should I be concerned with this?

If it is in tune this way is it okay?

The rest is set in line with the Berger holes, is it common for a rest to need to be set higher on this bow?

Any help would be appreciated, I do not want to go to a bow shop. I like the satisfaction of doing it on my own (As long as it is not something that requires a press). Since I have until hunting season next year I have plenty of time to play with it.

Thank You in advance

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