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Tag Archive | "tuning"

Paper tuning problem

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Paper tuning
I am trying to paper tune my compound bow (HOYT charger) however I consistently get a vertical upwards tear. I moved my knocking point even to a point where the arrow position is considered unacceptable ( the arrow has an upwards looking direction), changed the arrow rest blade (from 0.10 to 0.12) however the result is the same.

Can someone help me please?

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New string tuning question

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So I’m getting only a new string and I’m using the cables for now. I had an unfortunate experience with a local shop to keep it short. My question is how much running will be involved when I install this I had the bow timed and syncd so I just want to know how much I will have to play with it and what exactly am I doing? Will I just be setting the DL and checking brace, are?

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Tuning my own bows now

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Im starting to tune my own bows and my brothers and dads, and want to read or watch some good videos on it.
If you have any suggestions as what to look at all please post it.
I have read through the nuts and bolts guide (159 pages) 3 times and have started a fourth time
I also preordered the dvd
Thanks

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Ive been tuning for 2 years, What can I do better?

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Hey guys, I’ve been able to get bare shaft to land with fletch at 60 yards with all but one of my bows. After a thorough creep tune, Then I bare shaft. I’m of the opinion that simply paper tuning for a bullet hole means nothing if the nock cycles up and down through the power stroke, so I believe creep tuning first works better for me, and the long range grouping speaks for itself..

Although I am a beginner, I still try everything I can to improve, but most importantly, trying to gain a complete understanding of all the dynamics at work. I’ve developed a few opinions (subject to change ) and also a few theories. Basically my questions are in general, but I will give my set up info for anyone who is curious…

PSE Rally 59#@29", TR Revolution, scoot shark double jaw release, Easton Injexions 330 cut to 27" with 125 points and mini blazers..

When a shop set up this bow, I got a 4" tail high left tear at 12 feet, probably an 11 o’clock tear with bare shaft and almost the same exact same with fletched, only slightly shorter than the bare shaft tear.. I was getting 1" groups nearly every time at 30. I thought if I could get the bare shaft flying straight I would have even better accuracy, yet once tuned for perfect bare shaft flight, the grouping was worse!

I’m thinking, with such a stiff shaft… the huge tear was producing some flex in the arrow, making it a little more forgiving of mistakes? Is that possible?

Another question is, this bow is a twin cam, and shoots better with top cam leaning / and bottom \ on a RH bow, indicating more pressure on the cable side of the cams. Not a lot mind you, but they do lean.
My question number 2: would this make since to say the axle ends/or limb tips are more balanced this way?

And torque tuning. I’ve got some theories here.. say I’m at the 30 yard line and got sighted in on a vertical strip of masking tape, and basically drilling it most of the time with a few right and a few left.. I call it centered around the line..
then I torque right slightly, and those arrows go right by three inches…but when I torque left, those arrows only average left of the line by 1.5"… a few questions about this..

A: would you say based on these results, that I naturally torque one direction, and this is why one side shows a lot more effect than torquing the opposite way?

B: once my rest is slid back a little the torqued shots land on the line, as expected… I have changed the position of the nodes of my arrows in relation to my rest, yet, I still every now and then get a wide group. What’s your opinion on all of this?

Thanks for your help!

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Limb driven vs spring steel rest and torque tuning

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I have read a bunch of previous threads on this topic but still have a couple questions. The general agreement is that a drop away or limb driver is more forgiving to shooter error because the arrow is in contact with the rest for a shorter period of time. On the other hand the blade is said to be more forgiving for perfect form because it offers extra guidance to the arrow. The shooter induced error during the shot is torque… so here’s the question. If a blade rest is torque tuned does it theoretically offer the most accurate option? It would allow maximum arrow support with forgivingness to shooter error during the shot process.

I’m no pro… a good day on the 3d course for me is about 10 down from the open stake and a good Vegas round is around 290. I’m setting up a new bow and trying to figure out what will work best for my skill level.

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Who is the Strother tuning guru?

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On AT, who is the Strother tuning guru and string maker?

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tuning, recommended distance?

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So I’m going to be bare shaft tuning a new arrow in a couple of days. Is there a recommended or standard distance from the target to see if the shaft is stiff or weak? At what distance to you bare shaft tune?
Thanks

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Paper Tuning (Crazy Suggestions?)

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Good Morning All,

I just got back into archery after a 10 year break, college and paying for it kind of got in the way. I jumped back in with tons of enthusiasm and purchased a Hoyt Faktor 30 (black) based off of recommendations I found on here, and shooting one at my local archery shop. So far I love the bow, but I am trying to get everything all set-up the way I want it. The bow is initially set for a 27" draw, at 55 pounds. I also purchased Carbon Express Maxima Red 350 grain arrows with 100 grain tips.

As a first step to make sure I was doing things right, I scheduled a lesson at a local archery shop. The place where I purchased my bow doesn’t do lessons, so I started looking for another location. (By the way I live in Wisconsin, about an hour between Milwaukee and Madison) My first lesson was good, and he gave me a lot of great pointers which I think are already helping me. He made me cringe though when he told me I need to make some major changes with my equipment and to schedule a paper tune.

I am fine with a paper tune, in fact I was thinking the same thing, but here were his suggestions even before the tune.
- Shorten my draw length (ok, understandable)
- Shorten my wrist release (done, I shoot a tru-fire wrist release and already finger placement is better)
- Ditch my ARROWS, too stiff and they can’t tune them properly (wa wa what????)

I have NOT gone for the paper tune yet and will be doing that this Saturday, but after talking to a couple of my buddies, they think these guys are already full of hot air. I am just wondering if this is a big concern to anyone else, or if this all sounds fairly straight forward. I have redacted the names of the shops involved to protect the innocent, but will share if anyone has any insight on local shops. My biggest concern is already replacing my arrows after a month, and going by what was recommended from a local shop. Any thoughts? Questions I should be asking when I go in for my paper tune? Should I go to a different shop and get a second opinion?

Thanks for all the help,

Joe

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