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Tag Archive | "tuning"

So I need a LOT of tuning help.

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My tuning results so far seem to say I’ve done everything right. Take one look at these pics and you’ll say "no way."

So yesterday I was shooting 70 yard groups like this: (sorry if some of my pics come out sideways)

70ydGroup.jpg

I wasn’t really feeling it tonight (I was a little sore from shooting so much yesterday), so I decided to just plink around some at 30. I was nailing the circles on my block target, when all of a sudden, my groups jumped a good 8" to the right for absolutely no reason. Not fatigue, not pulling shots, I mean I was really, really focused and trying to get those shots back on the center dot and they would NOT do it. Here is what my bow did, all by itself:

30yd group.jpg

I was grouping consistently, just…off. It looked like I filed through the felt on my AXT Titanium Recon rest finally, and the instructions said to never shoot off the launcher arm without a felt pad as this will damage it. So, I decided to scrap that rest for now until I can find some sort of felt to replace my existing one since I can’t seem to find any made specifically for that rest. So, I took my QAD Ultra HDX rest off my old bow and put it on my current go-to bow, a Hoyt Charger. It’s my main bow now, and finding replacement felts for them is easy-peasie. So, off to paper tune it. To make a long story short, I was not quite tuned when my rest forks were smashed against my riser so hard the rest wouldn’t even fall all the way down. I had followed Nuts & Bolts advice and set my cam lean to vertical at full draw, but I could not get the paper tear to come out right and my arrow shaft was just darn-near TOUCHING my riser at brace, so I used a different method to calibrate cam lean at brace (this is a cam+1/2 bow, so the string is not parallel to the back of the riser). I got my cam lean where I thought it should be and went back to paper tuning. Finally got some perfect tears and the rest is still falling nicely:

perfect tears.jpg

My only issue (up to this point) is the horrendous angle that my arrow sits in the rest. Not so bad that the front face of the riser almost touches the shaft like before, but you can see from this picture the completely odd angle it has to sit at to eliminate the tail left/tail right tears in the paper: (I understand why; it’s because the string is not parallel to the back of the riser due to the cam+1/2 design, but this angle while necessary still seems steep…)

brace angle.jpg

Now on to Nuts & Bolts 2 yard windage calibration: Half moons in a sheet of paper at 2 yards:

half moon.jpg

(continue to next post since I’m only allowed 5 pics per post).

Attached Images


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Posted in Best archery reviewsComments Off on So I need a LOT of tuning help.

Bareshaft tuning – which method?

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I have read a lot and watched numerous videos about paper tuning a bow, especially bareshaft tuning.

I have read that bareshaft tuning through paper (trying to shoot a bullet hole) for a compound bow is not necessary. This method is typically used for traditional bow shooters who shoot fingers; however, I have seen videos of folks bareshaft paper tuning compound bows with releases.

I have also read and seen videos of bareshaft tuning your bow by shooting bareshafts and vaned arrows into a target and adjusting the rest or bow to get both arrows to hit the same spot.

My questions are can you use both methods to tune your bow or only one method? If both methods are used, which one do you tune to first? If only one method is used, which one is a (potentially) better tuning method?

Thanks for the responses and input.


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Fixed Blade Broadhead tuning problem

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When I make the switch from FP to fixed blade broadheads, I always have to do a little tuning. Which I expect. I can get it to hit to my target. And am getting consistent groups. BUT I can see a noticeable irregular movement of the knock, in flight. Most of the time it is a horizontal movement. It is almost as if the knock is trying to fly ahead of the broadhead ( that is a little exaggerated) but you get my point. What can be done to stop this?

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Paper tuning problem

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Paper tuning
I am trying to paper tune my compound bow (HOYT charger) however I consistently get a vertical upwards tear. I moved my knocking point even to a point where the arrow position is considered unacceptable ( the arrow has an upwards looking direction), changed the arrow rest blade (from 0.10 to 0.12) however the result is the same.

Can someone help me please?

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New string tuning question

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So I’m getting only a new string and I’m using the cables for now. I had an unfortunate experience with a local shop to keep it short. My question is how much running will be involved when I install this I had the bow timed and syncd so I just want to know how much I will have to play with it and what exactly am I doing? Will I just be setting the DL and checking brace, are?

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Tuning my own bows now

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Im starting to tune my own bows and my brothers and dads, and want to read or watch some good videos on it.
If you have any suggestions as what to look at all please post it.
I have read through the nuts and bolts guide (159 pages) 3 times and have started a fourth time
I also preordered the dvd
Thanks

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Ive been tuning for 2 years, What can I do better?

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Hey guys, I’ve been able to get bare shaft to land with fletch at 60 yards with all but one of my bows. After a thorough creep tune, Then I bare shaft. I’m of the opinion that simply paper tuning for a bullet hole means nothing if the nock cycles up and down through the power stroke, so I believe creep tuning first works better for me, and the long range grouping speaks for itself..

Although I am a beginner, I still try everything I can to improve, but most importantly, trying to gain a complete understanding of all the dynamics at work. I’ve developed a few opinions (subject to change ) and also a few theories. Basically my questions are in general, but I will give my set up info for anyone who is curious…

PSE Rally 59#@29", TR Revolution, scoot shark double jaw release, Easton Injexions 330 cut to 27" with 125 points and mini blazers..

When a shop set up this bow, I got a 4" tail high left tear at 12 feet, probably an 11 o’clock tear with bare shaft and almost the same exact same with fletched, only slightly shorter than the bare shaft tear.. I was getting 1" groups nearly every time at 30. I thought if I could get the bare shaft flying straight I would have even better accuracy, yet once tuned for perfect bare shaft flight, the grouping was worse!

I’m thinking, with such a stiff shaft… the huge tear was producing some flex in the arrow, making it a little more forgiving of mistakes? Is that possible?

Another question is, this bow is a twin cam, and shoots better with top cam leaning / and bottom \ on a RH bow, indicating more pressure on the cable side of the cams. Not a lot mind you, but they do lean.
My question number 2: would this make since to say the axle ends/or limb tips are more balanced this way?

And torque tuning. I’ve got some theories here.. say I’m at the 30 yard line and got sighted in on a vertical strip of masking tape, and basically drilling it most of the time with a few right and a few left.. I call it centered around the line..
then I torque right slightly, and those arrows go right by three inches…but when I torque left, those arrows only average left of the line by 1.5"… a few questions about this..

A: would you say based on these results, that I naturally torque one direction, and this is why one side shows a lot more effect than torquing the opposite way?

B: once my rest is slid back a little the torqued shots land on the line, as expected… I have changed the position of the nodes of my arrows in relation to my rest, yet, I still every now and then get a wide group. What’s your opinion on all of this?

Thanks for your help!

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Limb driven vs spring steel rest and torque tuning

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I have read a bunch of previous threads on this topic but still have a couple questions. The general agreement is that a drop away or limb driver is more forgiving to shooter error because the arrow is in contact with the rest for a shorter period of time. On the other hand the blade is said to be more forgiving for perfect form because it offers extra guidance to the arrow. The shooter induced error during the shot is torque… so here’s the question. If a blade rest is torque tuned does it theoretically offer the most accurate option? It would allow maximum arrow support with forgivingness to shooter error during the shot process.

I’m no pro… a good day on the 3d course for me is about 10 down from the open stake and a good Vegas round is around 290. I’m setting up a new bow and trying to figure out what will work best for my skill level.

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