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Tag Archive | "tuning"

tuning question (walkback?)

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had a limb crack on my martin and swapped in some new barsndale limbs. when replacing the limbs i tried to be real careful to keep the strings in the right twist and once i had it all reassembled that seemed to work bc everything seemed to be back in spec. So I shot bareshafts and fletched at 10 and they were grouped tight and slapping, no tail left or anything like that straight in. I did not have my 10/8 side bar setup when shooting the bareshafts though. So i went to the range yesterday and shot good groups around the bullseye at 20 and 40 but when i got back to 60 i was grouping consistently left about 3 inches and then at 80 grouping left about 6 inches left of bullseye. this was with the 10/8 sidebar setup. I know i had straight bareshafts at 10 so i thought i was good, but maybe i need to move my rest a little right according to a walkback tuning chart? or is this grouping left related to the sidebar. i had this sidebar setup before so im guessing its not canting anything and i just need to move the rest little bit but i just wanted confirmation. thx


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First attempt at bareshaft tuning. Need help

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Ok guys here is the deal. I have never attempted bare shaft tuning before and have always just used walk back tuning as a final adjustment and I’ve had things pretty dialed in. So last night I decided I would check how my bow shot a bareshaft. My results at 10yrds were ok but at 20yrds the bare shafts are 4in to the right of my fetched arrow and are going into the target with a pretty hard nock left direction. Bow is an 65lb elite so I don’t have a yoke system. Draw is 29.25" and I’m shooting goldtip 30x which is a very stiff spine. What adjustments should I make?


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Mathews no cam HTR tuning question.

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I recently picked another HTR. I draw it back and hit back wall and it literally wants to jump forward. Absolutely no valley. My other no cam never had that issue. What can I adjust to give it a little more valley. Thanks

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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Paper tuning

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20160612_134759_resized.jpg

Hi all, please explain for me terminology: "if you have a combination of the above rips, correct vertical tear first (How?) then move to the horizontal correction (how???). Please, see my attachment. I have a combo, but..how correct vertical? What it is mean? And the same about horizontalÂ… .
Thanks in advance.

Attached Images


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bareshaft tuning. what do i do now?

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So I have my Arena 34 set up shooting bullet holes on paper. Cams are synced to touch at the exact same time. Pulling 60# with 29"dl. This is what I am getting when shooting bare shaft at 10 yards. Should I add a half twist or full twist to left side yoke/remove from right side and advance top cam slightly? IMG_20160610_091609.jpgIMG_20160610_091639.jpg
Attached Images


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Posted in Best archery reviewsComments Off on bareshaft tuning. what do i do now?

So I need a LOT of tuning help.

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My tuning results so far seem to say I’ve done everything right. Take one look at these pics and you’ll say "no way."

So yesterday I was shooting 70 yard groups like this: (sorry if some of my pics come out sideways)

70ydGroup.jpg

I wasn’t really feeling it tonight (I was a little sore from shooting so much yesterday), so I decided to just plink around some at 30. I was nailing the circles on my block target, when all of a sudden, my groups jumped a good 8" to the right for absolutely no reason. Not fatigue, not pulling shots, I mean I was really, really focused and trying to get those shots back on the center dot and they would NOT do it. Here is what my bow did, all by itself:

30yd group.jpg

I was grouping consistently, just…off. It looked like I filed through the felt on my AXT Titanium Recon rest finally, and the instructions said to never shoot off the launcher arm without a felt pad as this will damage it. So, I decided to scrap that rest for now until I can find some sort of felt to replace my existing one since I can’t seem to find any made specifically for that rest. So, I took my QAD Ultra HDX rest off my old bow and put it on my current go-to bow, a Hoyt Charger. It’s my main bow now, and finding replacement felts for them is easy-peasie. So, off to paper tune it. To make a long story short, I was not quite tuned when my rest forks were smashed against my riser so hard the rest wouldn’t even fall all the way down. I had followed Nuts & Bolts advice and set my cam lean to vertical at full draw, but I could not get the paper tear to come out right and my arrow shaft was just darn-near TOUCHING my riser at brace, so I used a different method to calibrate cam lean at brace (this is a cam+1/2 bow, so the string is not parallel to the back of the riser). I got my cam lean where I thought it should be and went back to paper tuning. Finally got some perfect tears and the rest is still falling nicely:

perfect tears.jpg

My only issue (up to this point) is the horrendous angle that my arrow sits in the rest. Not so bad that the front face of the riser almost touches the shaft like before, but you can see from this picture the completely odd angle it has to sit at to eliminate the tail left/tail right tears in the paper: (I understand why; it’s because the string is not parallel to the back of the riser due to the cam+1/2 design, but this angle while necessary still seems steep…)

brace angle.jpg

Now on to Nuts & Bolts 2 yard windage calibration: Half moons in a sheet of paper at 2 yards:

half moon.jpg

(continue to next post since I’m only allowed 5 pics per post).

Attached Images


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Posted in Best archery reviewsComments Off on So I need a LOT of tuning help.

Bareshaft tuning – which method?

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I have read a lot and watched numerous videos about paper tuning a bow, especially bareshaft tuning.

I have read that bareshaft tuning through paper (trying to shoot a bullet hole) for a compound bow is not necessary. This method is typically used for traditional bow shooters who shoot fingers; however, I have seen videos of folks bareshaft paper tuning compound bows with releases.

I have also read and seen videos of bareshaft tuning your bow by shooting bareshafts and vaned arrows into a target and adjusting the rest or bow to get both arrows to hit the same spot.

My questions are can you use both methods to tune your bow or only one method? If both methods are used, which one do you tune to first? If only one method is used, which one is a (potentially) better tuning method?

Thanks for the responses and input.


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Fixed Blade Broadhead tuning problem

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When I make the switch from FP to fixed blade broadheads, I always have to do a little tuning. Which I expect. I can get it to hit to my target. And am getting consistent groups. BUT I can see a noticeable irregular movement of the knock, in flight. Most of the time it is a horizontal movement. It is almost as if the knock is trying to fly ahead of the broadhead ( that is a little exaggerated) but you get my point. What can be done to stop this?

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