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Tag Archive | "tuning"

TRX38 Tuning HELP! #archery

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Having a lot of difficulties getting an arrow to shoot with nock set 90 degrees or just above, I can’t get the nock high out of it. To the point I’ve set it up WAY nock low, and even nock high thinking maybe it was hitting the rest. I finally adjusted the timing of the cams, and was able to get bare shafts within 1/2” at 20 yards, and they fly great now, but the cams are not in sync, resulting in a shorter valley, and if I pull hard into it I can feel both drawstops hit. Had the bow over a year and never had issues with it doing to when cams were in sync until recently. I’ve also noticed I’m getting a lot of “blow bys” on the string stop, no matter how it’s set. Could it be possible I have bad bearings in my bottom cam, causing it to lean and and slow down the rotation on the shot just enough to affect the flight? I’m nearly at my wits end trying to get this figured, any help is much appreciated. I’m thinking of putting back into sync and tiller tuning, but being I’ve never had to do that before I would like to get this figured out.

My setup is an AAE Freakshow rest, and have tried both .10 and .08 blades. Currently shooting X Cutters weighing in at 365, with a 30” DL (70 V mods) and drawing 72 lbs.


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Insert tuning #archery

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Does anyone know how to find the Ranch Fairy’s video on insert tuning. He make mention of it in another video. I have tried the search bar, maybe I’m spelling something wrong. I have a dozen bare shafts and a whole summer to set them up.


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help with tuning / spine for Hoyt CST? #archery

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Hi all,

Longtime lurker, first time poster, thank you in advance for any help or advice you might have.

I don’t have a lot of tuning knowledge, especially when it comes to arrows, and I’m having a problem that just seems weird to me.
Either that, or I completely misunderstood Easton’s charts. Which, hey, sadly wouldn’t be all that strange for me 😉

Bow: Hoyt carbon spyder turbo, Z5 cams (number 3 I believe), 28 inch draw, 60 pounds give or take a few, Qad hdx rest (my first dropaway, I’m used to blades, but setup looks ok – it’s dropping, no vane contact that I can tell from smearing goop on em), centershot at around 6/8

Arrows, I’ve tried the following:

Easton 2317 XX75 Camo Hunter shaft cut to 29 inches 125 grain head
Easton Bloodline 330 spine, shaft cut to 29 inches 125 grain head
Easton FMJ 5mm 400 spine, cut to 28 inches 125 grain head

The strange thing (to me at least) is, paper tuning shows that it likes the FMJ but the Bloodline and 2317 are showing left tears – weak it seems. I’d actually have expected them to be stiffer, or at least fine for a 60 lbs bow? Am I wrong?
What could be causing this please? Just them being the 1 inch longer makes that much of a difference? I shot weaker spines than these 3 out of my previous 60 pounders with no real issues…

(Also, I’ve no internet at home right now so I’ll be checking in on this on my ancient flip phone thing but will not be able to respond til tomorrow – please take no offense if I respond slowly)


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Broadhead tuning help #archery

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Ok so my cpxl and my BT mag are setup exactly the same..
60# @29" shooting cx maxima 250 shafts.
Both bows will stack NAP Killzone practice heads and field tips on top of each other but when I screw on a full blade exodus they hit 3" left and 4" high.
What do I have tuned wrong and what to adjust?


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Bowtech Realm yolk tuning problem #archery

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Whats the trick to keep the yolk legs from twisting around each other. I always thought I twist yolk legs is the opposite direction as the cable and they won’t twist. I have about 2 full twists on the bottom and 3 on top. Thank you!


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Bear Cruzer Tuning, Centershot Off and Cam Lean #archery

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I recently purchased a Bear Cruzer RTH package from Cabela’s. I know it’s not a top of the line bow, but it’s replacing my Browning Ballistic Mirage that I’ve had for close to 12 years, so it feels like a pretty big upgrade to have something modern.

I am trying to get it tuned and running into some issues. I set the rest (whisker biscuit) at Centershot and I get a pretty bad right tear on paper. In order to get a bullet holes I have to push the rest pretty far from the riser, so much that the arrow is visually crooked when looking at the bow. Looking at the cams, the top Cam leans a little, if I lay an arrow on the cam, it intersects the string right at the d-loop. The bottom cam however is way worst. The bottom cam visually looks like it’s leaning, the string is slightly off center coming off the groove, and an arrow intersects a few inches before the loop when pressed against the cam. Both cams lean towards the cables, this was measured at brace.

I am assuming I need to yoke tune. I am hesitant though because I don’t want to screw up the timing of the dual cam system. Both cams are identical, I would think both cable lengths need to be identical. Can I yoke tune the bottom cam only, or do I need to do both cams?

I am shooting a 58 pound draw at 28 inches. My arrows are Easton carbons cut to 27.75 with 100gr tips. They are a 400 spine.

Any input would be appreciated.


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Question on tuning ODB cams #archery

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I’ve been reading and watching some vids on tuning the ODB cams. When needing to put twists in the cables, every one I saw put the twist in both sides of the yoke end. Is there a reason they would do that over putting it in the end that connects to the other cam?

Biggest reason I’m asking is because the shop owner that set mine up put quite a bit of twist in the yokes on top cam. My bow is a little too out of spec on ATA & brace now. It’s shooting good so I’m not gonna mess with it until after season. I’m gonna have to put twists in the cables and string I’d say to keep the draw weight right. Cams are timed still. Just seems like everything’s stretched. I’d rather not have to twist those yoke ends if the other end works fine. My assumption is that will work. Wanted to here from some of you that have experience with the system though.


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Fine tuning Mathews solocam draw weight #archery

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I just put new string and cable on my Mathews DXT. ATA & BH are in speck. With the limb screws tightened all the way my draw weight is 67 pounds, when it should be 70. Caper Trail string and cables by the way.
Do I twist just the cable to get the weight set right, or is there something else. I know it?s only 3 pounds, but I?m a bit meticulous about such things.
I know it?s been discussed in previous posts, I just want to be sure this method applies to my bow, and that I?m not missing something.
Thanks in advance.


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