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Tag Archive | "tuning"

Broadhead Tuning #archery

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Broadhead at 30yds is hitting high and to the left but at 20yds it’s dead center. Could someone help me out on why that is and how to correct it?
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bareshaft tuning… keep tweaking or call it good? #archery

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Alright first off my setup:

Mathews TX-5, if your not familiar with this bow, it’s basically a Triax on Crack. 28" ATA, 5" brace, the IBO is based on a 29" draw at 345, but it was a few FPS faster than my PSE expedite (IBO 352 with 90% mods) with same specs/ arrows so I usually put 355 into the calculators.

60# limbs maxed out to 61.6#
27" mods, actual draw is probably closer to 27.25"

Shooting Easton Axis with the full camo wrap and blazers 11.4 gr/in

300 spine
28" long
100 gr. Ethics Archery Inserts
125gr. Field point
total arrow weight 575
16%+ FOC
calculated at about 250 fps.

at 20 yards, bareshafts are impacting maybe an inch high, slight nock low position, many times when shooting yesterday the bareshaft landed inside of a group of 2-3 arrows at 20.

at 30 yards, bareshafts are impacting about 5" high with a nock low position.

My rest is about bottomed out in it’s adjustment (straight through berger hole), nock is about 1/16" high. I did try moving the rest up and it exaggerated the bareshaft misses, so the bow is responding appropriately.

This bow/ setup is going to be a hunting rig mostly shot at ranges 20-25 yards, never over 30 on a critter. I do practice out to 50 or 60 just for giggles.

Would you start twisting cables/ moving the nock point around? or would you leave well enough alone?


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Paper Tuning Question #archery

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So I have to ask this question. I have been shooting 60# bows for numerous years. Most have been obsession bows shooting 350+ IBO. I am a 30” draw. Most arrow manufacturers say 400 spine will work and I have shot 400 grain arrows very well at distances to 80 yards. Oh my arrows are 28” long. I have paper tuned them to perfection. Ok so what’s the problem…..

The rest is so far left that it just seems wrong. When I look down the string with a nocked arrow the arrow point hard left vs straight down the string. Hope that makes sense.

The Easton tuning manual says arrow is too stiff, but reading arrow charts I don’t see it. If anything I should go to 350/340.

Anybody else see this? Should I just ignore it – bows are shooting great – just looks odd to me.

Mike


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TRX38 Tuning HELP! #archery

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Having a lot of difficulties getting an arrow to shoot with nock set 90 degrees or just above, I can’t get the nock high out of it. To the point I’ve set it up WAY nock low, and even nock high thinking maybe it was hitting the rest. I finally adjusted the timing of the cams, and was able to get bare shafts within 1/2” at 20 yards, and they fly great now, but the cams are not in sync, resulting in a shorter valley, and if I pull hard into it I can feel both drawstops hit. Had the bow over a year and never had issues with it doing to when cams were in sync until recently. I’ve also noticed I’m getting a lot of “blow bys” on the string stop, no matter how it’s set. Could it be possible I have bad bearings in my bottom cam, causing it to lean and and slow down the rotation on the shot just enough to affect the flight? I’m nearly at my wits end trying to get this figured, any help is much appreciated. I’m thinking of putting back into sync and tiller tuning, but being I’ve never had to do that before I would like to get this figured out.

My setup is an AAE Freakshow rest, and have tried both .10 and .08 blades. Currently shooting X Cutters weighing in at 365, with a 30” DL (70 V mods) and drawing 72 lbs.


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Insert tuning #archery

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Does anyone know how to find the Ranch Fairy’s video on insert tuning. He make mention of it in another video. I have tried the search bar, maybe I’m spelling something wrong. I have a dozen bare shafts and a whole summer to set them up.


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help with tuning / spine for Hoyt CST? #archery

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Hi all,

Longtime lurker, first time poster, thank you in advance for any help or advice you might have.

I don’t have a lot of tuning knowledge, especially when it comes to arrows, and I’m having a problem that just seems weird to me.
Either that, or I completely misunderstood Easton’s charts. Which, hey, sadly wouldn’t be all that strange for me 😉

Bow: Hoyt carbon spyder turbo, Z5 cams (number 3 I believe), 28 inch draw, 60 pounds give or take a few, Qad hdx rest (my first dropaway, I’m used to blades, but setup looks ok – it’s dropping, no vane contact that I can tell from smearing goop on em), centershot at around 6/8

Arrows, I’ve tried the following:

Easton 2317 XX75 Camo Hunter shaft cut to 29 inches 125 grain head
Easton Bloodline 330 spine, shaft cut to 29 inches 125 grain head
Easton FMJ 5mm 400 spine, cut to 28 inches 125 grain head

The strange thing (to me at least) is, paper tuning shows that it likes the FMJ but the Bloodline and 2317 are showing left tears – weak it seems. I’d actually have expected them to be stiffer, or at least fine for a 60 lbs bow? Am I wrong?
What could be causing this please? Just them being the 1 inch longer makes that much of a difference? I shot weaker spines than these 3 out of my previous 60 pounders with no real issues…

(Also, I’ve no internet at home right now so I’ll be checking in on this on my ancient flip phone thing but will not be able to respond til tomorrow – please take no offense if I respond slowly)


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Broadhead tuning help #archery

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Ok so my cpxl and my BT mag are setup exactly the same..
60# @29" shooting cx maxima 250 shafts.
Both bows will stack NAP Killzone practice heads and field tips on top of each other but when I screw on a full blade exodus they hit 3" left and 4" high.
What do I have tuned wrong and what to adjust?


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Bowtech Realm yolk tuning problem #archery

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Whats the trick to keep the yolk legs from twisting around each other. I always thought I twist yolk legs is the opposite direction as the cable and they won’t twist. I have about 2 full twists on the bottom and 3 on top. Thank you!


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