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Tag Archive | "shafts…"

Can’t Get My White VaneTek V-Max Vanes To Adhere To Aluminum X7 Shafts #archery

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I just tried 9 times with different white VaneTek V-Max vanes and each time the vane either wouldn’t even stay on the vane for a second or if it did stay on, it would peel off after hours of cure time. The same VaneTek V-Max vane worked very well in orange or green vanes. Stuck so tight you couldn’t get them off for anything. The problem is with the white vanes and I am using 2 week old bottle of Bob Smith Maxi-Cure glue for everything. After the VaneTek vanes came off, I then fletched the same shafts with the same glue and Fusion X-II white vanes and those stuck on great – so the glue is good.

Has anyone been able to get the white colored VaneTek V-Max vanes to stick to their shafts? If so, what glue worked for you? Would appreciate some help if possible because I have several hundred of these vanes.


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XX78 Select Shafts? Help! #archery

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I’ve shot aluminum arrows for decades. I still shoot them from my recurves as well as my Mathews. I recently bought some NOS XX78’s for my compound. These arrived and I found they were XX78 "Select" with the different camo. I have shot XX75’s and some XX78’s, and they all either had the swaged nock end or the uni-bushing for use with Super nocks. Well today these NOS XX78 Select shafts came and I was a bit surprised that they do not have the uni-bushing in the nock end. The shaft of the nock ends are tapered down so a super nock goes directly into the shaft instead of using a uni-bushing to reduce the diameter. I’ve never seen this before, not sure how I ever missed this style of XX78 shaft. Someone school me on this style of nock end instead of a uni-bushing? Why did Easton do this? Better nock fit? Better nock alignment? Thanks in advance.


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Adding footers to .260″ Hexx shafts #archery

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Anybody have any experience adding footers to .260 Easton Hexx shafts? Sourcing or making the components would be helpful!


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3D Shafts #archery

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Why would a shooter shoot a fat shaft (other that line cutting) for 3d vs. a hunting shaft?


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micro dia. shafts for hunting #archery

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Just wanted to see how many guys are using them and whether you think there’s an advantage. Going to get some GT Pierce Platinum to try for next season.


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Tricks on cleaning the inside of .166 nano shafts #archery

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I need advice on how to clean out the inside of .166 shafts before installing inserts/tips. I usually use Q-tips on bigger shafts, but no luck using Q-tips on these nano shafts.


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Veritas Dowel Cutter to make wooden arrow shafts

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I’ve seen a lot of video’s on Youtube of people using a $ 40 Veritas 3/8ths dowel cutter.

link to product: http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag…180,42288&ap=1

The problem I have with this is that all the field points i’ve found are always in traditional arrow sizes like 5/16, 9/32, and 11/32. So I’m wondering what these people are doing for the tips of the arrows (they never show past the cutting of the shaft).

The same company offers arrow making inserts that come in the traditional sizes but then your looking at a minimum of $ 240

Could 3/8ths shafts work for making completed arrows? If so where can you get the field points that fit 3/8ths?

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Wooden arrow shafts vs. dowels

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First-time poster, and it’s a bit of a doozy. Here goes:

Is there a real, fundamental difference between wooden arrow shafts and dowels?

Let me first reassure you, I am not going to run to the hardware store tomorrow, buy up all their 3/8" dowels, and start gluing on points and nocks and fletchings. I do make all my own arrows, but for the moment I have a large, free supply of bamboo, so that’s what I use. I hesitate to even bring up the subject of dowels, because of the venom and nonsense that seems to pop up on every thread that mentions them, but I really do want to know the answer. Unfortunately, every time I’ve seen the question of using dowels brought up, it always seems to go like this:
———-
OP: Hey, I’m new to this whole archery thing, and I noticed that arrows are kinda pricey. Can I just use dowels from the hardware store to make my own arrows? I shoot a 45# longbow, if that matters.

Response #1: NOOOO! :mg: You must be the stupidest person alive to even THINK of using a dowel! Dowels are too weak, and they haven’t been spined, and they don’t even come from *insert my favorite archery supply store/website here*! Even wooden shafts from an archery store are too weak and dangerous, let alone dowels! You must use carbon arrows only!

Response #2: Dude, chill out. I used to use dowels all the time when I was a kid. Of course, my bow was a little green branch off my dad’s peach tree and a bit of kite string, but I’m sure you’ll be fine. :shade:

Response #3: Try it out and let us know how it goes. You can post some nice pics of your splintered dowel impaling your bow hand.
———-
There, now that I’ve put those out there, nobody else should feel compelled to reply with any of the responses above. 😀

My question is this: Is there a real, fundamental difference between wooden arrow shafts and dowels?

Based on all my reading and study, it appears that the basic process for making a dowel or a wooden arrow shaft is the same: First you cut your stock into long square boards (blanks), and then your round them off with a plane/router/lathe/etc. For a long time, I was under the impression that the square blanks for dowels were made by saw cutting the wood, while the square blanks for arrows were made by splitting the wood. Because wood splits along the grain, this would significantly reduce/eliminate grain runoff in the shaft. However, based on further study, it appears that the square blanks for both dowels and arrow shafts are made with a saw. In other words, the process is exactly the same.

This leaves me in a situation where I have to assume that the difference between wooden arrow shafts and dowels lies not in the process used to make them, but in the wood itself (and in the QC process). Wooden arrow shafts will be checked for straightness of grain, grain runoffs and knots. I would like to think they are also checked for the amount and size of late growth vs. early growth rings (one is denser and stronger, the other is more porous and weaker, but I forget which is which off the top of my head). And, of course, they are (or at least they should be) grouped by weight and by spine.

The upshot of all this is that, assuming I know enough to select a dowel made from a decent arrow wood, free from knots, with straight grain that doesn’t run off the edge, and that I’m able to find such a dowel at a hardware store or lumber yard, I should be able to use that dowel with no more danger to my bow hand/forearm than if I had bought that same piece of wood from an archery shop. Of course, that doesn’t necessarily mean it will shoot the way I want it to, since the hardware store doesn’t group dowels by spine and weight, but as far as the safety of the archer’s bow hand and forearm, it seems to me that there is no difference between a well-selected dowel and a wooden arrow shaft from an archery shop.

Now, I recognize that all of the above is my own opinions and assumptions. I really would like to know if I’m correct, or if I’ve missed some vital part of the process of making wooden arrow shafts that makes them different from or safer than dowels. Any information or enlightenment that the community here can provide will be most welcome.


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