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Tag Archive | "Paper"

Paper tuning question. Any recommendations please. Bowtech Tribute #archery

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2007 Bowtech Tribute.
26.5 draw length
70lbs bow set at 65lbs

The bow is tuned where there are two timing dots showing on the top cam and bottom cam.

So I’m getting Right Tear and I moved the rest away from the risor to correct it but that didn’t help and the rest was too far over. So I centered everything again and this time I switched out the cable slide which pulled the cables tighter to the cable rid and it actually improved the Right tear a little.

Reading a tuning guide it stated something about … move cable guard away from the arrow (increase load on cable guard).

What does this actually mean and how do I make those adjustments.

Are there any cable slides that bring the cables tighter away from the arrow?
Is there anyway to twist cables to make them tighter?


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Some experienced input needed on paper tuning result #archery

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This is what I started off with:

And this is where I stopped:

I can’t tell if tail is left or if that’s just the paper ripping to make it seem that way.

This is what that same hole looks like with the paper pushed from the back:

To me it looks like the point of entry is pretty close to centered within the vanes. The black marks are residue from the foam target.

I’m going to see if I can get out to do some walk back tuning so I just wanted to make sure it looked solid on paper.


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Question about paper tuning.

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I tried to tune my bow the other day. I kept getting a tear I couldn’t fix. However if I turn the nock the tear turns with it. Does that mean my arrow is no good?
I have a bear arena 34. Timing is set perfect. I fixed the cam lean to the best of my ability. Arrow I was trying to tune are cheapo blackout x5 shaft. They are bass pro brand made by goldtip.


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Paper tuning

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Hi all, please explain for me terminology: "if you have a combination of the above rips, correct vertical tear first (How?) then move to the horizontal correction (how???). Please, see my attachment. I have a combo, but..how correct vertical? What it is mean? And the same about horizontalÂ… .
Thanks in advance.

Attached Images


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Paper tunning?????

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Have a situation that I have never come across before. I’m shooting a Hoyt podium 40 with gold tip x cutters. I have been shooting for alittle while with factory strings…. Well I decide to put new strings and cables on it and when I got to shooting it threw paper I had a left tear that I could not get out. In fact the best I could get was about 1 inch straight left! Tried adjusting the yoke, moving the rest. And couldn’t get any better. So I grabbed victory x ringer thinking that could be the problem. First shot with that arrow was a bullet hole…….. So I thought I will try another x ringer and shot it……. Left tear!!!! Well after going back and forth from those 2 arrows I found the only difference was one was fletched with a blazer x2 vane and the other was a standard 2" blazer. The standard blazer was the one that would shoot a bullet hole….. So real quick I took the AAE max vanes off one of my x cutters and fletched it up with some 2" blazers……. First shot bullet hole!!!! I have never seen this before…..I would really like to shoot the AAE max vanes but can’t give up the good flight with the blazers…… Any ideas ??????? Help would be greatly appreciated…


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Paper tuning problem

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Paper tuning
I am trying to paper tune my compound bow (HOYT charger) however I consistently get a vertical upwards tear. I moved my knocking point even to a point where the arrow position is considered unacceptable ( the arrow has an upwards looking direction), changed the arrow rest blade (from 0.10 to 0.12) however the result is the same.

Can someone help me please?

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Paper Tuning (Crazy Suggestions?)

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Good Morning All,

I just got back into archery after a 10 year break, college and paying for it kind of got in the way. I jumped back in with tons of enthusiasm and purchased a Hoyt Faktor 30 (black) based off of recommendations I found on here, and shooting one at my local archery shop. So far I love the bow, but I am trying to get everything all set-up the way I want it. The bow is initially set for a 27" draw, at 55 pounds. I also purchased Carbon Express Maxima Red 350 grain arrows with 100 grain tips.

As a first step to make sure I was doing things right, I scheduled a lesson at a local archery shop. The place where I purchased my bow doesn’t do lessons, so I started looking for another location. (By the way I live in Wisconsin, about an hour between Milwaukee and Madison) My first lesson was good, and he gave me a lot of great pointers which I think are already helping me. He made me cringe though when he told me I need to make some major changes with my equipment and to schedule a paper tune.

I am fine with a paper tune, in fact I was thinking the same thing, but here were his suggestions even before the tune.
- Shorten my draw length (ok, understandable)
- Shorten my wrist release (done, I shoot a tru-fire wrist release and already finger placement is better)
- Ditch my ARROWS, too stiff and they can’t tune them properly (wa wa what????)

I have NOT gone for the paper tune yet and will be doing that this Saturday, but after talking to a couple of my buddies, they think these guys are already full of hot air. I am just wondering if this is a big concern to anyone else, or if this all sounds fairly straight forward. I have redacted the names of the shops involved to protect the innocent, but will share if anyone has any insight on local shops. My biggest concern is already replacing my arrows after a month, and going by what was recommended from a local shop. Any thoughts? Questions I should be asking when I go in for my paper tune? Should I go to a different shop and get a second opinion?

Thanks for all the help,

Joe

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Anyone Paper Tune?

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All the years I’ve paper tuned with verticals has me still doing it with the horizontals. While the weather is crappy, I have been fooling around with various arrows, components, weights, etc. I’ve always been a firm believer in the arrow coming off the bow perfectly straight, and do it with my xbows too. Usually when I get perfect tears with fletched and unfletched shafts, I dont need much adjustment outside at longer distances. Plus I like to know how the arrow is coming off the bow IF there is a 5 yard shot or so.
Just curious if anyone else does it?
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