Archery Store

I know this question is asked quite a bit. So I thought I would change it up a bit and be more specific.

I am 5′ 10" and an archery newb with limited funds, although I would rather have quality above all else.

At my dimensions, is there a certain length I want in a riser or overall length (if one piece)? I have shot #20 – #50 (I think) and really liked the high power draw.

That said, I want to know if there are any used bows in particular (vintage or modern) that you recommend with such a high draw that is just as smooth or comparable to the draw of a Hoyt Excel with decent limbs. And/or any other bows new or used that you think will surpass a Hoyt Excel, or maybe even a riser alone in comparison.

Also, what limbs would you recommend if I want to reach #50 – #60? ILF and/or singularly designed.

If the price is right, I do not mind having a non-ILF riser, otherwise it seems it is most ideal. And if I am misunderstanding anything in my newbishness, I would much appreciate any proper direction, thanks!

I guess, in short, I am looking to know if there are any vintage/modern/new/used #50-60 bows that are $ 200 that can outperform a hoyt excel or only at a slight disadvantage. And if there any bows that may be better than a hoyt excel, while not raising the cost too much.

My wife has been working through a temp agency since she left her EMT job. The other day they sent her over to Easton to make arrows. She’s fletching Easton aluminum shafts as I type this.

It’s not easy to find work these days so the first bit of good news is that it sounds like she has a chance to get hired on permanently. The second bit of good news is that she was told employees get a 50% discount on Hoyt Easton products! Doesn’t that sound too good to be true?

Wish me luck on her new job. LOL

I have a 27.5 – 29" DL, 60# PCE with number 4 cams that draws 3/4 long. I put the bow in the press measured the cables (BC 39.5 – C/C 41.5) and string (54), (BH 8 AND A2A 37.5) as per the Hoyt tune charts. On the lowest setting of the cams "B" it is drawing 28.5.
Any advice
Thanks

I have not really had any interest in either of these bows, until recently. I have always basically ignored them, so I don’t know much about them.

I realize they don’t have ilf compatibility, but do they perform comparably to ilf?

How do the Buffalo and das compare to each other?

Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk 2

I’ve never had this happen with any of my bows before. I guess shooting it is out of the question till I get the limbs replaced.

i put it on tonight but i still need some cam lean to paper tune is that okay i want to get rid of it

So I purchased a 2007(maybe 2008) Hoyt Montega with cam and a half cams. This is my first experience with these cams. The bow came with a new set of SSS strings but the cams are not coming back to the wall at the same time. The bottom is hitting the wall while the top cam still has some rotation to go. Neither cam is perfectly centered with the hole in the cam(from what I have read this is how you get the cams in their optimal position. As you can tell I need some help with the most foolproof way to get this bow drawing with the cams in time.

Any help/advise would be appreciated.

Thanks

Hey All,

I just got back from my local bow shop and just laid some money down on a 2013 Hoyt Spyder Turbo. The shop fitted me and I will have it ready by hunting season. I am STOKED as this is the nicest bow I have ever had! I usually try to do things on a tight budget and through the years I have had several different bows all of which I bought NOS or used off of ebay. This is a real treat for me.:) I read allot of the comments about the Bow here prior to pulling the trigger. Thanks again for this site, it is a great resource. I went with the Hoyt QAD drop down arrow rest and the rest of the accessories I will set in order when I finish paying for the bow.

John