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cutting arrows can i cut from the nock

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so i got a great deal on some carbon express arrows but they are 30inch and i need them 26. they already have inserts in them too. im going to refletch them anyways but can i cut them down from the top instead of the bottom?

really dont want to have to glue in and find new insterts.

thanks

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Thanks to all from Palmatedbuck

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Thanks to you all for the overwhelming support.ihave a ton of emails and it will take some time to get to everyone.wednesday i was at my sons football game and a colapased.in abulance i knew when icouldnt move my right side what was going on.and was having a hard time speaking. Never would have expected this at 44 years old.to all my friends on here that are smokers,the doctors said had i have been a smoker this would have killed me so throw your cigarettes away for me.also i was fortunate that this happened when it did if ihad beed sleeping and the stroke happened i would be typing this.yesterday was tough day but today after finally gettimg some rest i feel better.thanks again love all you guys,and thanks beaman and hitman for allowing me back

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Anyone from the Cambridge Ohio area ?

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My son is working there and needs to find someone to help him get his bow tuned up. If I can’t find him some help he is going to mail it back home to me to tune for him. He is a good respectful kid with a good job and don’t mind paying someone who can get his bow tuned properly for him . I appreciate any help . Thanks guys .

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Can’t draw bows when switching from Fingers to Mechanical at all.

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I’ve been practicing archery for most of my life, starting when I was, oh, I’d say ’bout five years old, when my uncle let me pick up a bow and found out I could draw it and hit a target instinctively. To say I’ve had a talent for archery is stretching it, but, I’m mostly self-taught, but, fairly proficient in the sport/art, still, even though I stopped shooting for 14 years, seeing as archery became too cost-prohibitive as I got into stronger and stronger bows. However, three years ago, I was re-introduced to archery when a friend bought me a Martin Lynx compound bow(#38-#65 draw, with a 29"), for my 19th birthday. I was hesitant with shooting a compound bow, as, I’m a die-hard Recurve and Long fan, and, I spent a good amount of my teenage years as an amateur boyer, making pretty decent bows before I would just throw, or give, away out of boredom and a lack of arrows, but, starting this year, I made a resolution to get into archery, and, since I have a hunting bow, fulfill one of my dreams of bow-hunting.
I’ve been shooting for my entire life, no matter how many times I’ve picked up a bow, always with finger-release. I do the ‘Legolas two-finger’ hold, with one above, and one below, the arrow nock, and, I’ve never had problems until this bow. I just had to adapt to a 3-finger under approach, and re-learn how to anchor and suddenly I went from shooting ones and fives, to shooting tens and twenties on ends of about 4-5 arrows(I use my own targets; in a nutshell, I went from 8" groups down to about the size of a baseball) at my practice distance of 20 yards. However, the different feel of the string from the compound versus a more ‘traditional’ bow brought to my attention that I have old nerve damage in my fingers, so, I recently bought a release. I do mean recently…I am writing this post not even 3 hours after purchasing the release, because I have absolutely no idea what to do.

My Martin bow is set down to roughly #45, seeing as anything higher than 50 and I’m overbowed due to my 14 year lapse of activity in the sport, and I am physically unable to draw my bow at all. I am not even kidding, I’ve searched and found one person who couldn’t draw on another website to his chin, but, he had a length problem. The length of my bow’s draw was just adjusted 1.5" down to support a possible decision to get a release, which I was told for my arm would be more than sufficient, almost regardless of what mechanism I purchased. So, I went out and bought a TruFire Hurricane Extreme Buckle mechanical release. Put the D-loop on no problem, made it a double turn for some added security with it(didn’t trust the minimum to hold.), nocked an arrow, plugged in, and tugged. And tugged. And tugged, wincing in pain the entire time.

I lowered the draw weight down as far as I could go, about #38, gave it another go, with the exact same result. When I switched to finger release, with my glove, I was able to draw it back, no problem at all, even up to the full #60 for my Martin, albeit highly overbowed and wobbling like crazy. Tried a similar length bow at #25 with the release, and the same excruciating pain in my shoulder appeared, and, I was unable to draw the bow back even an inch. It was as if I was trying to draw the release back, with it attached to a nail embedded in concrete. The string. Barely. Moved. What in the heck is going on here? Why can I draw like a pro with my fingers, but, suddenly, my bowstring is attached to Mjolnir(Thor’s Hammer) when I put the release on? I know it isn’t my bow, because somebody who’s been doing this a while was able to draw my bow no problem, so, I know it has to be me. I really need to know what’s going on, here, and how to fix it, because this is the most discouraging thing I’ve ever experienced in my life.
For anybody offering help, please, I cannot stress enough that I am on an extremely tight budget. Suggesting I purchase a bunch of bells and whistles is useless information, I need advice that will help me deal with this problem for real, using what I’ve got. I’ve spent 200 bucks on this bow, so far, just to get to this point and start failing. This isn’t an equipment problem, it’s a user malfunction, so, how do we fix the user?

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Looking for great taxidermist within 2hr drive from Albany, NY

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Hey all,
I am looking for a taxidermist with great skills within a 2hr drive from Albany NY. As you may have seen, I have another thread started about a mount I just got back that I am not happy with. I am looking for a taxidermist that can remount it. The cape probably cannot be reused so I will most likely need a new cape. Also, one of the tines was repaired by the other taxidermist…it is o.k. BUT could use some touch up. My criteria is a taxidermist who can do a great job and make this deer mount look much better. You can find pictures in this thread http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2279297.
Thanks!

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No news from IBO shoot in Erie

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I am surprised I have not see a thread on IBO shoot going on. Has the IBO become unpopular or is there no internet access in the area.

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Couple questions from the New Guy

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Hello Everyone,

Just wanted to say "Hi" and ask a couple of questions of you folks. I recently began shooting again after my wife scheduled a day shooing for the family a few weeks back. I had shot a lot in my youth, but it’s been literally decades, so after getting hooked again I consider myself a complete newb.

I purchased a parker sidekick xp. I have some left arm problem, and could lower the pull weight for this bow to a level that I could handle (I am hoping the exercise will help with the elbow and should problems I have). The price was also so good (clearance) that I was able to purchase arrows, a release, and backstop for less than the PSE and Hoyt bows I was looking at. For where I am at now I hope I made a good decision.

I have a couple of question I was hoping to get answered. One, the sight. I’ve been adjusting it, and now I have it set to the extreme bottom and extreme left positions. And it still needs slight adjusting. From my experience with rifle shooting, I am guessing that this may be a posture issue? Does anyone have a suggestion as to what I am going wrong?

Secondly, I had been having some trouble with the peep sight, and not getting good alignment. I had been reviewing "Nuts and Bolts of Archery", and attempting to replicate the draw and posture I saw there. However, when I did this, suddenly the Cable guard relaxed and drawstring from it was in my line of sight. Do I have to make draw length adjustments?

Thank you for you time, and I look forward to your answers.

Milo

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Imperial by Omega, from unfinished bow to launching arrows

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I received my new Imperial from Kegan yesterday afternoon. The bow was in unfinished condition. Red Oak riser, hickory laminations, black glass. 42#@30". Its shooting about 41# at my DL. Put a string on it at the club with Kegan, braced at about 6" it put an untuned 415g arrow through the chrono at 185 fps. So, basically an arrow slightly over 10gpp was getting really good speed.

I am going to chronicle how I take Kegan’s unfinished bows…. and finish them. Kegan offers the option of purchasing the bow unfinished. Basically, it is sanded pretty smooth but needs a finished sanding, then prepped for stain and a clear coat. As I acquire more than my fair share of Omega’s, I save Kegan the task of finishing the bow. Plus this is a good time to customize the grip if you choose to do so.

Here’e what I’m starting with:

More to follow when I get some time.:darkbeer:

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Heartland Archery | Winnipeg

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