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Tag Archive | "bows"

why are bows designed/built this way?

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Have often wondered why bows are designed with the nock and arrow rest above the centerline of the bow, thus creating upward nock travel as the bow is drawn, instead of centered between the axles, so the nock travel would be straight or level. If I understand right, the Mathews no cam is centered, are any other manufacturers doing this? It seems like it would be the most logical thing to do, so why aren’t they?


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Shot Some Bows Today

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Shot an Elite E35 A Mathews no cam HTR and A Pse Decree
The elite was really nice. I liked the draw and the let off. Very smooth and easy to hold.
The Mathews was also nice. Smooth and dead in the hand. Grip was not the greatest but ok.
The decree was good too. I liked the draw and the grip and it had a little vibration on the shot but nothing too bad.
If I had to choose between the three and was buying today I would take the decree. The speed and the draw and the fact that I shoot a pse drive LT and am used to the grip and the let off and can drill with the drive.
All 3 bows are nice and you couldnt go wrong with any of them.


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I just spent the last 2 days @ G5 Prime Bows Summit & & 3D!

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G5 Prime had me out to their Summit and 3D! I’m a Hoyt guy, but in preparation for the "class" and shoot I picked up a Prime Rival a few weeks ago. This event was at the Snowbird Ski Resort! Beautiful place! It’s late and the extreme 3D destroyed me!!!
I’ll update this later with more details later, but I wanted to say that the "Summit" was well done and very interesting!
The next morning at 7:30, we all met at the tram to the top of the mountain (11,000 el.). Just before boarding the tram, they announced who would be in what groups. I was shocked when it was announced that I would be in the group with Dave Cousins! He couldn’t have been nice, more encouraging or more helpful.
I made my day!!!


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Obsession Bows

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Are they as good as I’ve heard? Never shot one. Are the smooth and fast as advertised?

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Tuning my own bows now

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Im starting to tune my own bows and my brothers and dads, and want to read or watch some good videos on it.
If you have any suggestions as what to look at all please post it.
I have read through the nuts and bolts guide (159 pages) 3 times and have started a fourth time
I also preordered the dvd
Thanks

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Shopping for a new bow where target bows are rare…

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Hello all,
First post and hoping for some insight. Ive been doing Barebow recurve on a Sage for months, and hoping to invest in a more serious compound setup.Most people will say go down to your proshops and shoot, but there’s not many options for. The stores that are within my area only carry middle range hunting bows, and I have my eye on a higher end target bow like the Supra or Deliminator. The stores will order them in for me, but it’s not like I can just pass on the bow if I don’t like it, or that I"ll be able to compare bows . How do others in my situation shop? I’m also left handed and Canadian, so buying bows is even harder, 2nd hand seems impossible.

Also, anyone have any tips for going recurve to compound?

Thanks

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Can’t draw bows when switching from Fingers to Mechanical at all.

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I’ve been practicing archery for most of my life, starting when I was, oh, I’d say ’bout five years old, when my uncle let me pick up a bow and found out I could draw it and hit a target instinctively. To say I’ve had a talent for archery is stretching it, but, I’m mostly self-taught, but, fairly proficient in the sport/art, still, even though I stopped shooting for 14 years, seeing as archery became too cost-prohibitive as I got into stronger and stronger bows. However, three years ago, I was re-introduced to archery when a friend bought me a Martin Lynx compound bow(#38-#65 draw, with a 29"), for my 19th birthday. I was hesitant with shooting a compound bow, as, I’m a die-hard Recurve and Long fan, and, I spent a good amount of my teenage years as an amateur boyer, making pretty decent bows before I would just throw, or give, away out of boredom and a lack of arrows, but, starting this year, I made a resolution to get into archery, and, since I have a hunting bow, fulfill one of my dreams of bow-hunting.
I’ve been shooting for my entire life, no matter how many times I’ve picked up a bow, always with finger-release. I do the ‘Legolas two-finger’ hold, with one above, and one below, the arrow nock, and, I’ve never had problems until this bow. I just had to adapt to a 3-finger under approach, and re-learn how to anchor and suddenly I went from shooting ones and fives, to shooting tens and twenties on ends of about 4-5 arrows(I use my own targets; in a nutshell, I went from 8" groups down to about the size of a baseball) at my practice distance of 20 yards. However, the different feel of the string from the compound versus a more ‘traditional’ bow brought to my attention that I have old nerve damage in my fingers, so, I recently bought a release. I do mean recently…I am writing this post not even 3 hours after purchasing the release, because I have absolutely no idea what to do.

My Martin bow is set down to roughly #45, seeing as anything higher than 50 and I’m overbowed due to my 14 year lapse of activity in the sport, and I am physically unable to draw my bow at all. I am not even kidding, I’ve searched and found one person who couldn’t draw on another website to his chin, but, he had a length problem. The length of my bow’s draw was just adjusted 1.5" down to support a possible decision to get a release, which I was told for my arm would be more than sufficient, almost regardless of what mechanism I purchased. So, I went out and bought a TruFire Hurricane Extreme Buckle mechanical release. Put the D-loop on no problem, made it a double turn for some added security with it(didn’t trust the minimum to hold.), nocked an arrow, plugged in, and tugged. And tugged. And tugged, wincing in pain the entire time.

I lowered the draw weight down as far as I could go, about #38, gave it another go, with the exact same result. When I switched to finger release, with my glove, I was able to draw it back, no problem at all, even up to the full #60 for my Martin, albeit highly overbowed and wobbling like crazy. Tried a similar length bow at #25 with the release, and the same excruciating pain in my shoulder appeared, and, I was unable to draw the bow back even an inch. It was as if I was trying to draw the release back, with it attached to a nail embedded in concrete. The string. Barely. Moved. What in the heck is going on here? Why can I draw like a pro with my fingers, but, suddenly, my bowstring is attached to Mjolnir(Thor’s Hammer) when I put the release on? I know it isn’t my bow, because somebody who’s been doing this a while was able to draw my bow no problem, so, I know it has to be me. I really need to know what’s going on, here, and how to fix it, because this is the most discouraging thing I’ve ever experienced in my life.
For anybody offering help, please, I cannot stress enough that I am on an extremely tight budget. Suggesting I purchase a bunch of bells and whistles is useless information, I need advice that will help me deal with this problem for real, using what I’ve got. I’ve spent 200 bucks on this bow, so far, just to get to this point and start failing. This isn’t an equipment problem, it’s a user malfunction, so, how do we fix the user?

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Why no more Max4 camo on production bows?

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Always thought that was the most awesome camo pattern ever on a bow. I know BowTech offered it for a couple of years. Now seems to have vanished from all production bows?

If it’s out there being used I sure don’t see it anymore.

Anyone know what happened to it?

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Heartland Archery | Winnipeg

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