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Tag Archive | "better"

Layering (yes, including Sitka) success – but I want better! 400 or 600 g wool? #archery

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I just returned from a very cold hunting trip in Nebraska. My success in staying warm was better than my hunting results, so I choose to dwell on the mundane of what I wore (too many layers) and how to improve. Thankfully my failure on the hunt itself wasn’t due to a missed shot…..

Anyway, Saturday started at ~10 degrees F and -1 windchill. I managed to sit in the stand for the entire day (~11 hours). Here is what I wore:

Feet – two pairs of wool socks, Lacrosse 1600 Alphaburly Pros, BootSuits and a handwarmer inside each boot

Legs – Kuiu Merino base, Sitka Merino Core, Sitka Dakota pants and Fanatic bibs

Top – Kuiu Merino base (x2), Sitka LW Crew SS, Sitka Core Heavyweight Zip-T, Kuiu Super Down Vest, Marmot Trail Wind Jacket, Sitka Fanatic Hoody, Sitka Incinerator Jacket

Misc – Sitka Fanatic Beanie and Gloves, Incinerator Muff (with two hand warmers) and Neck Gator

I don’t think that I need to make any changes other than to the upper body, as 8 layers is ridiculous – the chore in getting dressed, and the challenge in venting the many layers. Some former military buddies who were hunting with me suggested a heavier Merino base layer to replace several layers, so I’ve been looking at the heaviest base or mid-layers made by WoolX, Woolpower (Ullfrotte) and FirstLite. I’m leaning towards the Woolpower 600g top. Any thoughts on this or the other brands, and how many of the above layers I could eliminate?

Any thoughts? Thanks in advance


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Gerbing or Milwaukee Heated clothes? Which one is better? #archery

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Just curious between the two?


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Life Is Better When I’m Hunting Coffee Mug Reviews

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Dennis East International Life Is Better When I'm Hunting Coffee Mug

  • Life Is Better When I'm Hunting Coffee Mug
  • Extra Large 20 Ounce Capacity
  • Measures 4.5 inches tall x 3.75 inches diameter
  • Handwash only
  • Makes a great gift
The perfect gift for any hunter! Ceramic mug features gold bullet handle and funny saying. Not microwave safe.

List Price: $ 24.59 Price: $ 24.59

More Hunting Products

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Better than Summit Goliath for big guy? #archery

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I hunted last season with a Summit Goliath, impressed with the stability and comfort, but hated packing and hiking back with it. I know there are some mods I could do, adding molle straps etc.

Looking for something to accommodate me, 6’4" 280 lbs. Really looking at something that is lighter weight and packs better than the Goliath, comfort isn’t a huge concern as I tend to stand more than sit.
Was looking at the LW Hand Climber Combo II, seems to fit what I’m looking for but have never tried a hand climber type stand.

Anyone move from a Goliath to something they prefer better or should I just consider doing some mods to the Goliath?

Thanks.


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3 heads are better than one….

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I’m so glad that I am reaching the point of tuning my own bows and getting better. I have 3 nice bows and only been doing this stuff for a little less than a year. I have killed deer last year and have gotten the shot this year so far. BUT from left to right……field point, (middle) 3 blade fixed,,,and far right Rage 2-blade expandable. I am satisfied with the progress I have made on tuning. All 3 shots are from 30 yards. thanks to everyone that has taught me and been a huge help here on Archery Talk. AGAIN thanks.
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How to be a better tracker

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I had very good luck tracking deer this past season, either blood trails that Stevie Wonder could follow, or very short blood trails that didn’t matter. However in preparation for next season, and in the attempt to add ‘more tools to the tool box’, What are your trips for tracking? I already Keep a ziploc of cheap TP to place on blood to mark the trail if needed, cheap chemlights for night time tracking, but that’s about it. If you had to walk through your steps immediately following the shot, how do you track a deer?

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What’s better???

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What’s a better broadhead mechanical or fixed???

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Ive been tuning for 2 years, What can I do better?

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Hey guys, I’ve been able to get bare shaft to land with fletch at 60 yards with all but one of my bows. After a thorough creep tune, Then I bare shaft. I’m of the opinion that simply paper tuning for a bullet hole means nothing if the nock cycles up and down through the power stroke, so I believe creep tuning first works better for me, and the long range grouping speaks for itself..

Although I am a beginner, I still try everything I can to improve, but most importantly, trying to gain a complete understanding of all the dynamics at work. I’ve developed a few opinions (subject to change ) and also a few theories. Basically my questions are in general, but I will give my set up info for anyone who is curious…

PSE Rally 59#@29", TR Revolution, scoot shark double jaw release, Easton Injexions 330 cut to 27" with 125 points and mini blazers..

When a shop set up this bow, I got a 4" tail high left tear at 12 feet, probably an 11 o’clock tear with bare shaft and almost the same exact same with fletched, only slightly shorter than the bare shaft tear.. I was getting 1" groups nearly every time at 30. I thought if I could get the bare shaft flying straight I would have even better accuracy, yet once tuned for perfect bare shaft flight, the grouping was worse!

I’m thinking, with such a stiff shaft… the huge tear was producing some flex in the arrow, making it a little more forgiving of mistakes? Is that possible?

Another question is, this bow is a twin cam, and shoots better with top cam leaning / and bottom \ on a RH bow, indicating more pressure on the cable side of the cams. Not a lot mind you, but they do lean.
My question number 2: would this make since to say the axle ends/or limb tips are more balanced this way?

And torque tuning. I’ve got some theories here.. say I’m at the 30 yard line and got sighted in on a vertical strip of masking tape, and basically drilling it most of the time with a few right and a few left.. I call it centered around the line..
then I torque right slightly, and those arrows go right by three inches…but when I torque left, those arrows only average left of the line by 1.5"… a few questions about this..

A: would you say based on these results, that I naturally torque one direction, and this is why one side shows a lot more effect than torquing the opposite way?

B: once my rest is slid back a little the torqued shots land on the line, as expected… I have changed the position of the nodes of my arrows in relation to my rest, yet, I still every now and then get a wide group. What’s your opinion on all of this?

Thanks for your help!

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