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Tag Archive | "bareshaft"

Bareshaft is perfect….. fletched = terrible #archery

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Halon 32/6 got my bare shafts shooting perfect 10yds throw in fletched arrows and I get Tail left tear. no contact issues that I can see. Anyone got trouble shooting tips before I start shooting broadheads? Spine maybe? I shot a couple different point weights same result


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First attempt at bareshaft tuning. Need help

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Ok guys here is the deal. I have never attempted bare shaft tuning before and have always just used walk back tuning as a final adjustment and I’ve had things pretty dialed in. So last night I decided I would check how my bow shot a bareshaft. My results at 10yrds were ok but at 20yrds the bare shafts are 4in to the right of my fetched arrow and are going into the target with a pretty hard nock left direction. Bow is an 65lb elite so I don’t have a yoke system. Draw is 29.25" and I’m shooting goldtip 30x which is a very stiff spine. What adjustments should I make?


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bareshaft tuning. what do i do now?

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So I have my Arena 34 set up shooting bullet holes on paper. Cams are synced to touch at the exact same time. Pulling 60# with 29"dl. This is what I am getting when shooting bare shaft at 10 yards. Should I add a half twist or full twist to left side yoke/remove from right side and advance top cam slightly? IMG_20160610_091609.jpgIMG_20160610_091639.jpg
Attached Images


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Bareshaft tuning – which method?

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I have read a lot and watched numerous videos about paper tuning a bow, especially bareshaft tuning.

I have read that bareshaft tuning through paper (trying to shoot a bullet hole) for a compound bow is not necessary. This method is typically used for traditional bow shooters who shoot fingers; however, I have seen videos of folks bareshaft paper tuning compound bows with releases.

I have also read and seen videos of bareshaft tuning your bow by shooting bareshafts and vaned arrows into a target and adjusting the rest or bow to get both arrows to hit the same spot.

My questions are can you use both methods to tune your bow or only one method? If both methods are used, which one do you tune to first? If only one method is used, which one is a (potentially) better tuning method?

Thanks for the responses and input.


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Bareshaft tune or not??

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That is the question. Should I try to bareshaft tune or not??…. I am shooting a Htr. And shooting it well for me. I have bh and fp hitting together. I have noticed that as I increase yardage. Say 60 and 70 yards. I start to miss to the right. With fp and bh. I move sight. And hit left at closer ranges. I decided to to shoot a bareshaft at 20 yards today. I hit about 1 to 2 inches to the right of fp with nock left impact. Should I try to tune the bareshaft??.. And how would I go about doing so without a woke system. Not really wanting to start using shims. Or should I try to make slight rest adjustments??… I am shooting 60# @ 28".. Shooting gt kinetics. Cut to 27 1/4 using 100 gr tips plus 20 gr screw in weight


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flecthed vs bareshaft

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left handed here my bare shaft shoot 3-4"right of fleched so do you take the bareshaft to the fleched or the fleched to bareshaft

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bareshaft tuning a sage shooting 3 under?

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As a newb I have been watching and reading like crazy over the last few weeks on archery. I have not found anything on bareshaft tuning with a 3 under shooting style. How will this affect my results. If someone knows a good link that would be appreciated. I have a 45# sage with a 26 1/4 drawlength. Figure on 500 -600 shaft but would like to shoot the heaviest feasible broadhead for deer ( 165 to 175 grains I’m guessing). Any input is greatly appreciated.


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Zipper bareshaft tuning

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Hi guys, I really appreciate the knowledge you all have given me with my Trad set up. I have another question: Shooting Lefty Zipper recurve set at 53# at 28 inches. tried several arrows and spines. Today I tried to bare shaft tune using a full length HT1 500 with a 33 grain aero outsert. tried 125, 100 and 150 grain points. Got the same looking tear with all of them. Anyway, I’m relatively new so I figure it is a form issue. What type of tears should I expect and does anybody know if there is a standard spine/point weight setup for these parameters? I have OT2 for my compound. I shoot about a pie plate size group at 20 yards now and tried shooting 3 with 125 and 3 with 150 and then 3 with 100 grain points. Seems like 150 groups best. BTW switched to 3 finger under and made a big difference! Thanks in advance.


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